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Our Philosophy

At the core of this business is the small but beautiful idea that riding bikes is one of the most simple and natural ways for a human to interact with the world. The act doesn’t need to be justified by technology or a finish line or speed or watts or even fitness. Really it’s about the feeling of moving through space under your own power, going where you want, exploring and seeing what’s there.

Bikes belong to everybody. That includes the fastest among us, shaving grams to make every second count or the riders who venture out into the wild on equipment that pushes the limits of technology and the edges of a bank account. We’re not here to throw shade. Those pursuits are genuine and valid and real, and it’s a part of what makes this culture rich and diverse. But when it comes down to it, that’s just not our wheelhouse. We’re more about practicality, longevity and maybe a little adventure. It’s the long way home or the unnecessary detour to check out a strange alley or a new trail, with utter disregard for time and speed and performance. It’s the choice to be comfortable, intrepid, and curious.

We’re a little concerned that the industry keeps telling one story, which has always been there, but it just happens to be really loud right now: newer, lighter, faster, better. While there’s nothing wrong with this story, it seems to be drowning out the other stories, our story, and potentially your story. Sometimes it comes across as a rule book, like there’s a correct bike, a correct way to ride and specific uniform you have to wear to be allowed in, which, let’s face it, draws some people in, but unfortunately it can also push others away.

This limits what bikes can be, what bikes are.

We ride in whatever’s comfortable. We have baskets, carry too much weight, have kickstands, or put modern mountain bike parts on an 80’s touring bike. Our rigs are old and heavy, new and strange, light and fast. It doesn’t matter. We can ride for solitude or community. We ride to get to a specific place or simply to wander and explore. Maybe we just want to skip the car or ride to stay healthy. But we think that most of us, from the spandex-clad Strava KOM to the person riding a tank of a single-speed beach cruiser, is experiencing something universal among most people who choose to hop onto that saddle, the joy that comes with riding a bicycle. And maybe a little suffering (you know who you are.)

This is also a major reason why WheelBuildingKit.com exists. Of every part on a bicycle, the wheel is the one where taking your time actually makes a difference. Sure, any old factory built wheel can be pretty good, but a wheel you lace and tension yourself can be so much better, longer lasting and yours. There’s something magical about taking a bare rim, a hub, and a fistful of spokes and turning them into one true, round, dependable thing with nobody’s hands but your own. It imbues a bike with personality and adds to the quality of its soul. Yes, bikes have souls, if you let them.

But the barrier for entry has always been steeper than it should be. Picking spokes and parts and gathering all the accouterments to build a wheel is kind of a hassle. Figuring out which hub plays nicely with which rim assumes you already know the answer. And the parts catalogs are built for shops moving volume, not for one person building one solid wheel for a bike they love, a bike infused with memory, history and spirit.

That’s the gap we fill. Every kit is simply a hub, a rim, and a set of spokes we’ve already cut to length and chosen to work together. But these kits are so much more than that. They’re a gateway into greater connection with this amazing, simple conveyance.

We have curated our wheels to fill a niche that seems to have been ghosted by big-bike. We offer dynamo setups for the people still out there after sunset, or just wanting to keep their phone charged over the days of a long tour., or a trip to the farmers market. We offer rim-brake builds for all the bikes the market decided to forget. We design builds with high spoke counts, for bikes with wide gearing, old-school geometry, and lugged frames. These wheels are the ones nobody mass-produces because there’s no crowd to sell them to. We cut every spoke in-house, so what lands on your doorstep is ready to build, not a scavenger hunt for a donor bike on an online marketplace.

We’re not counting on selling stacks of wheels. We’d rather help you build the one that’s right, and in that process the crafting of the thing part of the ride instead of a chore on the way to it.

Our parent company is called Velolento, which is an Italian / Spanish mash up meaning “slow bike,” but the name is really about spirit, not pace. It’s a philosophy not a dogma. Ride intentionally, pay attention, make room for others. Treat cycling as something you live rather than something you perform.

If you believe a good ride doesn’t need a finish line, and you’d sooner build the wheel than just hand over a card for one, you’ve found your people.

Welcome to WheelBuildingKit.com. Let’s ride.

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Wheel Building Basics

This is not a comprehensive how-to-guide on wheel-building. It is meant only as a general overview.

Wheel building is the process of lacing a hub to a rim using spokes, then applying tension and aligning everything so the result is round, without wobbles , and durable. Most first wheels come out usable, and with enough time, and effort completely true. A reasonably patient person can build a decent wheel in 2-8 hours. Your first build may take forever, but if you’re like us you’ll love the process. Experienced builders do it in under an hour or two.

THE COMPONENTS

A wheel has four ingredients: a HUB (the center), a RIM (the outer hoop), SPOKES (typically 28, 32, or 36), and NIPPLES (small threaded fasteners that connect spokes to rim and act as the tensioning adjustment). Spoke length is specific to the hub/rim/lacing combination and must be calculated. Unfortunately, getting this wrong is the most common beginner mistake. And that’s where our kits shine, because we take that out of the equation.

LACING PATTERNS

There are several common lacing patterns, but here we’ll focus on 3-cross.

Wheels built in a three-cross or cross-3 pattern are thusly named due to the fact that each spoke crosses three others on its way from hub to rim. This is the default for nearly all rear wheels and most front wheels. The crossings let the spokes transmit torque (pedaling, braking) by pulling roughly tangent to the hub flange rather than radially. This lacing pattern has quite a few advantages including strength, comfort, and longevity. For this reason all of our wheel kits use the three-cross lacing pattern. It’s not exotic but practical , strong, and time tested.

Other lacing patterns include 2-cross, 4-cross, and Radial. While these may have advantages such as aesthetics, aerodynamics and minuscule weight savings, they sometimes sacrifice strength and durability, or are a necessity depending on the type of hub (4-cross). Wheels build using the 3-cross pattern are generally considered to be the best recipe for creating a long lasting, strong wheel build.

THE BUILD SEQUENCE

This is not a comprehensive guide to putting together a bicycle wheel. While we’re pretty good at building wheels, we won’t pretend to the the authority on the subject, because there are already so many great resources that will help you. Why try to reinvent the wheel.

  1. LACING. Typically the spokes are inserted one at a time following whatever patterns Done correctly, the result is a loose, floppy wheel with all spokes attached but minimal tension. This takes most of the time on a first build because you’re constantly second-guessing which hole goes where. Sheldon Brown’s lacing guide is the canonical reference and walks through it hole by hole.
  2. INITIAL TENSIONING. You thread each nipple down the spoke with a screwdriver or nipple driver until the threads just disappear, giving every spoke roughly equal starting tension. The wheel now holds its shape but is nowhere near rideable.
  3. TRUING AND TENSIONING. This is the craft part. Using a truing stand (or the bike frame as a stand-in), you bring the wheel into four kinds of alignment, working all of them together rather than one at a time:
  • RADIAL TRUE: roundness with no high or low spots as the rim spins
  • LATERAL TRUE: flatness with no wobble side-to-side
  • DISH: the rim is centered between the ends of the axle (critical for rear wheels because the cassette makes the hub asymetrical)
  • EVEN TENSION: every spoke on a given side carrying similar load

Builders methodically and gradually raise tension across the whole wheel, going around in passes (often quarter-turns), correcting wobbles by tightening on one side and loosening on the other. A tension meter helps to assure tension is in right range. Non disc / rim-brake font wheels typically have equal spoke tension in the left and right side due to the flanges often being both symmetrical and the same size. Disc brake hubs are often asymmetrical in flange diameter and offset. This same asymmetry often applies to rear wheels where the drive side spoke tension is typically much greater and the non-drive side substantially lower. You can build without a meter by feel and pitch (plucking spokes to hear similar tones), and plenty of good builders do, but a meter can help decrease the learning curve and give a first time builder valuable insights.

  1. STRESS-RELIEVING.One method is to squeeeze pairs of parallel spokes hard with your hands, or press down on the wheel against the floor at various points around the rim. This unwinds any twist (windup) in the spokes from tightening and seats the spoke elbows into the hub flange. The wheel will go slightly out of true again. Then fix the imperfections, and repeat until stress-relieving stops changing anything. Skipping this step is why some wheels go out of true a week after the first ride.

WHAT MAKES A WHEEL GOOD

A well-built wheel isn’t just true, it has EVEN TENSION across all spokes on each side and is STRESS-RELIEVED. A perfectly true wheel with wildly uneven tension will detension itself within a few hundred miles. This is the part that separates a working wheel from a durable one, and it’s invisible to anyone looking at the finished product.

TOOLS YOU’LL NEED

Minimum tools needed: spoke wrench sized to your nipples, a screwdriver or nipple driver, the frame/fork as a truing stand, oil for the spokes and nipples.

Ideal tools: dedicated truing stand, spoke holder, nipple driver, dishing tool, tension meter, and oil for the spokes and nipples.

A truing stand is perhaps the upgrade that matters most after the wrench itself.

WHERE TO GO FROM HERE

Free and paid sources worth knowing:

  • Sheldon Brown’s wheel-building article: This is a foundational and maybe slightly dated guide, but still excellent.
  • Roger Musson’s “Professional Guide to Wheel Building” is purchased as paid PDF from his website. It is widely considered the best single resource. It’s our favorite resource.
  • Park Tool video series on YouTube can give you a visual on how it works.
  • Jobst Brandt’s “The Bicycle Wheel”: This offers the basics and a technical deep-dive to help the reader understand why everything works the way it does. It’s out of print, but there’s many used copies available on online market places.